Associated SC10 Beginner's Buying Guide

TeamSC10.com has put together a buying guide that explains exactly what you need to race or bash the Associated SC10! MORE HERE

Shock Rebuild on the SC10

Shock Rebuild SC10

The shocks on the SC10 should be rebuilt every month or so to keep them in top shape. Over time, the oil in the shocks will slowly leak and after a few weeks the oil loss will start to affect performance of the shocks. Also, rebuilding your shocks gives you a chance to try a new shock oil weight that could shave time off your laps.

We have a shock rebuild guide that walks you through taking apart your shocks, filling them up with fresh oil and getting them back on your SC10.

This guide walks you through changing the oil on one of your shocks. The same concept applies to the front and rear shocks.

Step 1: Remove the shocks from the SC10

Grab a 3/32" hex driver and remove the two hex screws holding the shock to the shock tower and the a-arm (Pictured above is the front-right shock). Remove the top hex screw by holding the nut on the screw with some pliers and then unscrewing with the hex driver. Pictured to the right is the shock after the top hex screw was removed. No need for pliers on the bottom screw, just unscrew with hex driver. Keep your screws in a safe place or even better just leave them threaded into the a-arm and shock tower.

Step 2: Remove the springs from shock bodies

Compress the spring and pull up the spring container so it is on the shock shaft (See picture to the right). Pop the shock container off the shock shaft and put it in a safe place. Then remove the spring and make sure to locate the plastic piece that fits on the top of the spring. You can remove the pre-load spacers from the shock body, but it is not necessary.

Step 3: Remove the shock caps, empty oil, and refill

Grab 2 sets of pliers (1 pair of needle nose) to remove the shock caps. Grip the hex portion at the top of the shock body with the needle nose pliers and then grip the shock cap with the 2nd set of pliers. Then simply loosen the shock cap while being careful not to spill the shock oil (See picture to the right).

Then empty the oil into a garbage can. After emptying, slowly push the shock shaft into the shock body. A little more oil should come out when the shock shaft is fully compressed. Next, grab your shock oil of choice and fill the shock body until the oil forms a thin bubble over the rim of the shock body. Make sure the shock shaft is fully extended before filling! Screw the shock cap back on with your fingers, do not over-tighten.

For a shock oil weight, we recommend 35wt in the rear and 40wt in the front. This is for a hard clay track with 8th scale jumps.

If you are running on a 10th scale track you might want to try a lower weight oil all the way around, because you don't need to worry about bottoming-out on the jumps and the softer action will increase traction through the bumps and turns.

If you are running in the street, try a higher weight all the way around. This will give you more stability at high speeds and keep your truck from bottoming out on any jumps you set up in your driveway :)

Step 4: Bleed the Shocks

When you screw the shock cap back on and compress the shock shaft, you should notice a fair amount of pressure in the shock. This is because there is an excess of oil/air in the shock body that needs to be bled out. With the shock shaft fully extended, loosen the shock cap a few turns, tilt the shock about 45 deg, and compress the shaft. If you cannot compress the shaft all the way, loosen the shock cap a little more until you can. Once you can compress the shaft all the way, tighten the shock cap and check the pressure in the shock again. The idea is to bleed out a little shock oil and air from the shock body so that their is very little pressure in the shock. The pressure in the shock ca be gauged by how far the shock shaft extends after you compress it all the way. Pictured to the right is my shock after bleeding and compressing the shock shaft all the way. You can see there is a little pressure pushing the shock shaft out, but not too much.

Step 5: Put the springs back on the shock and re-install the shock

Once you have bled the shocks, make sure the shock cap is tight on the shock body. Use the pliers to tighten, but be careful not to over tighten. Put your spring back on and re-install the plastic spring container on the bottom of the shaft. Then screw the shock back onto the truck.

That's it! Only 5 steps. The first time it will probably take you 5-6 minutes per shock, but with a little practice and the right tools you will be doing a 4-shock rebuild in 10-15 minutes.

Be sure to read our article about the new SC10 FT Front V2 Threaded Shocks and the SC10 FT Rear V2 Threaded Shocks

If anything in this article is unclear, please post below so I can clarify.

Thing is, when I use this method, when I fully compress the shock I can hear air bubbles no matter how close I bleed the shock. The guys at my lhs dont have any air in their shocks at all. Would different caps make this easier?

Unscrew the bottom of the shock and u will see the o-ring they go n their.

i am trying to rebuild my rtr shocks but cant quiet figure it out. i bought the rebuilt kit that comes with new o-rings and spacers and stuff but cant figure out where to install them. all help greatly appreciated. thank you darren

i am trying to rebuild my rtr shocks but cant quiet figure it out. i bought the rebuilt kit that comes with new o-rings and spacers and stuff but cant figure out where to install them. all help greatly appreciated. thank you darren

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.