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SC10 Motor Gearing

SC10 Motor Gearing

Motor gearing is one of most important tuning options that you can play with on the SC10. Changing the gearing of your SC10 affects many things, including: Top speed, acceleration, motor temperature (motor life), and run time. Gearing will be different for everybody depending on type of motor, track conditions, and driving style.

The easiest way to adjust motor gearing is to change the pinion gear. The pinion gear is small gear that fits on the shaft of your motor. The pinion meshes with the spur gear. By changing the pinion gear, you should be able to achieve the gearing you want under most circumstances.

Most of the SC10 RTR kits come with a 87 tooth spur gear and a 20 tooth pinion gear. We suggest sticking with the 87t spur and experimenting with the pinion gear. Your first concern when looking for the right pinion gear is motor temp. If your motor is running too hot to the point where you have to stop every 5 minutes and wait for the motor to cool down, you may want to gear down from that pinion. There are some other things you can do to control motor temp but gearing down is the best way to control temps (see Checking and Regulating Motor Temp). Remember, if you can't touch and hold the end of your motor can for 3 secs, then your motor is probably too hot. By following this rule you will be sure that you are not damaging your motor.

The second thing you need to adjust gearing for is the track you are running on. Does your local track have a long straight away? Does you track have a lot of stop and go action? Are there jumps that you need to hit but don't have much room to get speed going? These are all questions of torque vs. top speed. The most important things to gear for in terms of the track are:

1. Are you getting the most out of your SC10 on the straightaways? Straightaways are the best places to pass your competitors and you don't want to be losing ground here. I would say to error on the side of less top speed for beginners but as you gain more experience, you will need those extra RPM's.

2. Do you have enough torque to get out of the corners and prepare for crucial jumps? I know on my local track there are two jumps that you NEED to hit. If my gearing is too high, it makes it difficult to get up to speed and I can't hit those jumps. When I gear down, it is much easier to get up and hit the jumps, saving me some time on every lap.

The main issue here is gearing your SC10 to a point where it can do everything you need to do on the track, without threatening dangerous motor temperatures. Everyone drives a little different. Some like more top speed with more sliding around corners. Others prefer more torque with solid traction through turns. First you need to decide how want to drive, then look at what the track demands. After you have a pinion gear that feels right, check your motor temps to make sure you aren't doing any damage.


Start with the 87t spur/20t pinion if you are running the RTR motor set up. Gear the pinion up if you are experience cool motor temps or not enough top speed. Gear the pinion down if you are having hot motor temps or not enough torque. You should have an array of pinion gears in your tool box so quick changes based on track conditions can be made.

If you are running a modified set up, like the Castle Creations 5700kV motor, then you will want a smaller pinion gear for most track setups. We suggest starting with a 87t spur and 17t pinion gear and go from there. From our experience, this motor runs fairly hot but the 18t is necessary to get the top speed we need during races.

Please share your motor and gearing setups for your SC10 in the comments section below!

I strongly agree of this article, however we have to take consideration of those ideas for others benefit.

hello.. was just wondering about the size of battery. i just bought a sc10 4x4 short track and want to know how high of a battery i can get without damaging the motor. im thinking of getting a Lipo 2s 7.4v 5800mah 70c. is the 70c to much for it . also i heard from a few people i can use a 3cell as well and others say i cant..can i use a 3 cell.. thank you very much

Just got me a brushless sc10 and I'm new to it but it has the complete stock setup and is really slow I was thinking about either putting a 25t on it or switching the motor and esc from my axial terra buggy because it seems faster but is less kv so I guess I need a few pointers

I run a 17.5 Trinity my gearing is 75: 28 it runs about 150 two 160 I run low 19's there are other drivers running hi 17's please help trying to beat a losi 22 I've been trying to beat him for 3 months

Can i run a castle sct with a 7700kv motor in a stock sc10?

irun 16/87 and my temp is 113 to 115f

You need to get diff rebuild kit from team associated. I had same problem and called them and they sent one for free. I'm sure your gears are probably messed up and they have better shims. Replaced mine and they are fine for now. Make sure u use plenty of grease

I run 3300 kv with 18t 87t with a 11.1 3 cell lipo 20c 4000 it's getting hot to point where I can't touch the motor should I gear it down????? Or smaller batt??? Help don't want to waste money or blow motor it's also now making a clicking noise on take off gears look ok to me

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try to chnage your batt 7.4v 2s and your gearing is fine i run 3300kv before and i use 16/87 for indoor race.

Ya, I'm not running the 11.1 but my back end is doing the same clicking sound. I have pulled the diff apat countless times and even shimmed it like the forums say to do. I'm heading to on of my local (I live 60 miles from both lol, Reall local right?!) today (Friday, 3/30/2012) and I'll ask some questions about that gut wenching grinding sound.

I run 3300 kv with 18t 87t with a 11.1 3 cell lipo 20c 4000 it's getting hot to point where I can't touch the motor should I gear it down????? Or smaller batt??? Help don't want to waste money or blow motor it's also now making a clicking noise on take off gears look ok to me

i run a tacon motor and lrp esc.. i run the 87 spur and i was playing with 16 and 14 pinion. and the 14 gives me the quick speed i need for a technical track but straightaway i loose speed. motor temp stays around 100-130 on light-moderate pushing of vechicle....

Well I was @ my local track indoor clay 3300kv 16 /87 gearing was getting. Very. Hot should gear down one more?

I had this problem ...switch to a 19 pinion too small pinion makes you rev too high all the time running the motor full throttle all the time "over revving " basically

I was having the same problem, with the same gearing. Turned out to be a couple bad wheel bearings.

I run a LRP SXX TC V2 and X-12 13.5 with 87/18 or a 19 pinion on a small indoor track. Lots of tight turns. Temps in the 150's with moderate timing.

I have a castle 4 pole 3800 sct in one truck and a castle 4600 sv2 in the other. The 4 pole motor has a set up of 87/17. The motor gets up to 150 degrees. It lacks a little top speed though. The 4600 motor has a set up of 87/15. It tears up the track.

Very nice site!

RUNN'IN 14t 87t on a indoor clay track with a Castle 5700 mamba max pro and after a 15-20min practice run my motor was at 162 and that is running hard on a 2s 5000mah lipo..

Just got the CC Sidewinder with a 5700kv. Running just straight out hard and heavy with a 2s 5200 30c temp run about 138 after 10 min. 3s 4000 30c getting up to 165. Spur gear 87t pinion 14t.

3600Kv, speed passion short course combo,SC10....
22/87 tight track...
23/87 fast track.
24/87 super fast track
motor has plenty of torque, temps always below 160f.

I run the Castle Creations 4600kv Sidewinder with a lipo, 16t pinion and 87t spur. After a solid 10 minute run on my track the motor is pretty hot, but there is a pretty long straight away all the way around the track right now so that doesnt help.

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